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Conventional wool
VS
recycled wool

Wool

We can find the most common wool from sheep, but we can also produce wool from many other animals, such as alpacas, Angora rabbits, camels, Cashmere and Angora goats…

Many breeds of sheep are also used, resulting in various types of wool fabrics, like Merino wool or Shetland wool. Some fabrics are even made from lambswool!

Wool has been so popular around the world for so many centuries because it has many great properties. The exceptional qualities of wool will keep you comfortable in changeable weather.
Why wool is good for you

Wool is a bulky fiber

It means that it retains a layer of air next to the skin, making it a good temperature regulator. As a result, wearing wool clothing helps insulate the body, keeping it warm in the winter and cool in the summer.

Temperature regulating

Wool also has extraordinary moisture wicking abilities (it can also absorb up to 40% of its weight in water). It means that clothes made of wool absorb body sweat, release it and dry by themselves to keep you comfortable in changeable climates.

Wool is both hypoallergenic and breathable

so it’s an ideal fabric for clothing

Anti-microbial and odour resistant

Wool naturally resists odour to keep you fresher for longer and minimise the amount of washing you have to do!

UV and fire resistant

Wool offers natural protection from the sun and flames.

Wind and water resistant

Wool is naturally wind and water resistant to keep you protected from the elements.

Wool is very elastic

as it can stretch up to 50% of its original length. So wool fabrics do not lose their shape or wrinkle easily.



Wool is a very durable material

it is resistant to flame without chemical treatment as each fiber contains moisture.

Why wool is good for the planet

Biodegradable


When wool is disposed of, it will naturally decompose in soil, slowly releasing valuable nutrients back into the earth.

Renewable


As sheep produce a new fleece every year, wool is a completely renewable fibre.

Microplastic-free

Entirely natural, wool garments are free from microplastics that pollute our waterways, air and soil.


Reformation

But…

Since it is a fabric made from animal fibers, wool production comes with different ethical issues.


One of the most striking ones is that sheep often endure painful and inhumane practices, such as mulesing, tail docking and castration, generally done without pain relief when the lambs are only a few weeks old.

Tail docking, meaning cutting the sheep's tail, and mulesing are practiced to prevent flystrike, which happens when flies lay their eggs and burrow into the sheep's flesh. Banned in New Zealand but still practiced in other parts of the world, mulesing involves cutting skin from the lamb's buttock.

As you can imagine, such practices are very bloody and painful for the animal. Flystrike can actually be avoided without harming the sheep, yet mulesing and tail docking are still very common in the wool industry.


Workers in the wool industry are usually paid very poorly and by the volume. It means that they need to shear the animals as quickly as possible. This not only shows how stressful their working conditions are, but the extreme working rhythm contributes to the mistreatment of animals: they are often cut so deeply that they need to be stitched.

Not to mention the fact that animals are kept in increasingly cramped conditions, they are often sprayed with insecticides, which contain hazardous chemicals for the farmers and the sheep.


Another unethical issue is that, since sheep are usually bred to be born in the winter, millions of lambs die each year because of the cold, neglect and starvation.


All those harmful practices are common in the wool industry, making it a very unethical material.

So…

Wool from sheep and alpacas as well as cashmere from goats are produced in supply chains which commodify and routinely, ultimately slaughter of sentient beings. With major emissions and biodiversity impacts, choosing alternatives to these animal fibres is a decision to protect life on earth.

Recycled wool

Recycled wool combines the benefits of regular wool, but is more sustainable because:

  • Recycled wool involves reusing old wool garments and turning them into new products.
  • Doing so diverts used wool fabrics from the landfill, reducing land use. In addition, it minimizes the use of chemicals and doesn’t contribute as much to environmental pollution.
  • Compared to virgin wool, producing one kilogram of recycled wool helps save 11 kg of CO2 and 500 liters of water.
  • Recycling wool also does not cause any ethical issues because no animal is harmed or treated poorly in the process.

There are several certification labels you can look for if you want to make sure that you are purchasing recycled wool, the most famous one being the Global Recycled Standard.

And remember that buying second-hand wool is another way to “recycle” this fabric!

How is a recycled wool fabric made?
Based on one of the most well-known hubs for wool recycling is Prato, Italy, where the biggest textile district of Europe has mastered this circular economy practice, which is also chemical-free and dye-free - Manteco.

1

"Sbambolatura" or QUALITY CHECK of garments



“Sbambolatura” – is an overall quality check on garments. All of this is done through a particular tool called “bambola” – ‘doll’ in English – which is a backlit and V-shaped dummy that reveals all the defects on garments.

If the checked garment has defects, it is passed to the sorting phase, where it will be put with garments of similar color and composition, then recycled and used for producing recycled wool materials.
✔️ If the checked garment does not have defects, it will be put again into the market as second-hand or vintage clothing, thus living a longer life!

2

SORTING garments and scraps per color and composition



In this phase, garments are masterfully divided by color and composition. This phase is done by the cenciaiolis, high-skilled artisans who are able to recognize fabrics (and their composition) just by touching them. Once old garments are sorted, they are sent to the next phase

3

CLEANING of garments from non-recyclable elements

In this phase, the garments are manually cleaned from non-recyclable elements and parts that could contaminate the ‘new’ recycled fibers, such as: allthe parts containing elastaneare cut off the garment, brand labels and care labels, zippers, buttons, linings, embroideries, stitching made of a different material than the garments.
4

SHREDDING of garments to turn them into recycled wool fibers

In this phase, the garments and scraps , which were carefully cleaned and divided by color and composition, are processed with a mechanical shredding machine. Old garments are carried on a conveyor belt, first through a series of blades, or guillotines, then through two cylinders—one grabs, another one pulls—to chop the fabrics even finer, all of this without using chemicals, but just with a little water. The result is a ‘new’ recycled wool fiber.

5

COLOR CREATION by mixing different shades of fibers without dyes and chemicals

This phase, called blending, gives life to the recycled wool fabric’s final color. When it comes to creating colors in wool recycling, no additional dye is needed, since the ‘new’ fibers obtained through the shredding process come from garments and scraps that were dyed in their former life.

6

SPINNING to create recycled wool yarns

Once the right color recipe has been achieved and multiplied by the kgs of yarns to be produced, big bales of recycled wool fibers are sent to the spinning mill. Here, the raw material is processed in a big carding machine, which is composed of two large cylinders (drum and comb) equipped with metal teeth. This machine mechanically disentangles, cleans, intermixes and parallelizes fibres to produce a continuous and homogeneous web, which is then separated into long rovings and spinned. The resulting yarns are tested and – if they meet all quality standards – are sent to the weaving mill.

7

WARPING the recycled wool yarns to create the fabric's warp

This is the crucial phase before creating the actual recycled wool fabric. The warping phase is the preparation of yarns to weave fabric. It is the transfer of many yarns from the creel of single packages to a beam. The basic objective of warping is to built a package where yarn ends remain in uniformly set parallel and continuous form, in order for it to be easily put on a loom and be woven.

8

WEAVING the yarns to create the actual recycled wool fabric

The big beams of yarns obtained through the warping phase are sent to the weaving mill, the place where the actual recycled wool fabric comes to life.
The result of the weaving phase is the greige fabric, which is tested and then sent to the finishing mill.

9

FINISHING the recycled wool fabric to give it a specific look

The finishing mill is the place that literally ennobles and enhances the look, performance and handfeel of greige fabrics, which usually are never readily usable.

When compared to generic virgin wool fibers, MWool®impacts 99.2% less on climate change, 99.9% less on water use and 93.3% less on total energy consumption, according to Manteco’s LCA [life cycle assessment]